How to Alter a Dolman Sleeve?

Altering a dolman sleeve to add bust cups can be a great way to create a custom fit garment that is comfortable and flattering. Whether you have a full bust and need additional support, or you simply want to add a little extra shape to your garment, bust cup alterations can be a useful tool in your sewing repertoire.

In this guide, we will cover the steps for altering a dolman sleeve to add bust cups, as well as tips for fitting and sewing them in place. By following these steps, you can create a garment that is perfect for your body and style.

Creating a Separate Armhole Seam

To cut the front and back bodice pieces along the armhole curve:

• Start by laying your garment flat on a clean, flat surface.
• Using a pair of sharp scissors or a rotary cutter, carefully cut along the armhole curve of the front and back bodice pieces, starting at the shoulder seam and ending at the underarm. Try to follow the curve as closely as possible, being mindful of any gathers or darts that may be present.
• Once you have cut out the front and back armhole pieces, set them aside. You will use these pieces as a guide to create your new armhole seam.

To trace the front and back bodice pieces onto a new piece of paper and draw in the new armhole seam:

• Start by laying your front and back bodice pieces on a piece of paper, and trace around the edges using a pencil or pen. Be sure to include any darts, gathers, or other details.
• Once you have traced the front and back bodice pieces, lay the front and back armhole pieces on top, aligning the shoulder seam with the traced shoulder seam.
• Trace around the edges of the armhole pieces, being sure to include any gathers or darts.
• Using a ruler, draw a straight line from the shoulder seam down to the traced armhole curve. This will be your new armhole seam. Be sure to add seam allowance to this line.

To cut out the new front and back bodice pieces, including the new armhole seam:

• Using your traced and marked front and back bodice pieces as a guide, cut out the new front and back bodice pieces from your chosen fabric.
• Carefully follow the marked lines for the new armhole seam, being mindful of any gathers or darts that may be present.
• Once you have cut out both front and back bodice pieces, you are ready to move on to adding bust cups or completing any other desired alterations.

Adding Bust Cups

There are several different bust cup alteration methods that you can use to add cups to a garment with a dolman sleeve. Here are three common methods:

Full bust cups

This method involves adding a full bust cup to each side of the bodice, with the cups being attached to the side seam or underarm seam. This method is a good choice if you have a full bust and need additional support.

Partial bust cups

This method involves adding a partial bust cup to each side of the bodice, with the cups being attached to the side seam or underarm seam. This method is a good choice if you have a smaller bust and do not need as much support.

Bias-cut bust cups

This method involves cutting the bust cups on the bias (diagonally) and attaching them to the bodice using a small dart. This method is a good choice if you want a more natural, seamless look.

To choose the right bust cup alteration method for your garment, consider the following factors:

The size and shape of your bust:

If you have a full bust, you may want to choose a method that provides more support, such as full bust cups. If you have a smaller bust, you may be able to get away with a method that provides less support, such as partial bust cups.

The fabric and style of your garment:

The fabric and style of your garment may also affect your choice of bust cup alteration method. For example, if you are working with a stretchy knit fabric, you may want to choose a method that allows for more movement, such as bias-cut bust cups. If you are working with a structured fabric, you may want to choose a method that provides more support, such as full or partial bust cups.

Here are some tips for fitting and sewing in the bust cups:

• Fit the cups before sewing them in place: Before sewing the cups in place, try on the bodice with the cups basted in place. This will allow you to make any necessary adjustments to the fit before committing to a final placement.
• Use pins or basting thread to hold the cups in place: To hold the cups in place while sewing, use pins or basting thread. Be sure to remove the pins or basting thread before sewing the final seam.
• Use a small dart to shape the cups: If you are using the bias-cut bust cup method, you may need to use a small dart to shape the cups to fit the contours of your bust. Be sure to mark the dart placement and size on your pattern before cutting out the cups.
• Use a stretch stitch or a serger for a stretchy fabric: If you are working with a stretchy fabric, use a stretch stitch or a serger to sew the cups in place. This will allow the cups to stretch and move with the fabric.
• Use a narrow zigzag or a twin needle for a non-stretchy fabric: If you are working with a non-stretchy fabric, use a narrow zigzag or a twin needle to sew the cups in place. This will provide a secure, professional-looking finish.

Finishing the Alteration

To sew the front and back bodice pieces together, including the bust cups:

• Start by laying the front and back bodice pieces right sides together, aligning the shoulder seams and the underarm seams.
• Pin the bodice pieces in place, being sure to include the bust cups.
• Using a sewing machine or a serger, sew the shoulder seams and the underarm seams together, following the marked seam allowance.
• Once the shoulder and underarm seams are sewn, try on the bodice to check the fit. Make any necessary adjustments to the fit before proceeding.
• If you are using a full or partial bust cup method, sew the side seams together, following the marked seam allowance. If you are using a bias-cut bust cup method, you may need to sew a small dart to shape the cups before sewing the side seams together.
• Once the side seams are sewn, try on the bodice again to check the fit. Make any final adjustments to the fit as needed.

To neaten the armhole seam and hem:

• If you have used a serger to sew the shoulder and underarm seams, you may not need to neaten the armhole seam further. If you have used a sewing machine, you may want to neaten the armhole seam using a zigzag stitch or an overlock stitch.
• To neaten the hem, you can use a narrow hem or a rolled hem. If you are using a narrow hem, press the hem up to the wrong side of the garment and sew in place using a straight or zigzag stitch. If you are using a rolled hem, fold the hem under twice and sew in place using a rolled hem foot or a narrow zigzag stitch.

I hope these tips help! If you have any questions or need further clarification, feel free to ask.

Resources

Here are a few resources that you may find helpful for more information on dolman sleeves and bust cup alterations:

• “How to Alter Dolman Sleeves for a Better Fit” by Threads Magazine: This article provides step-by-step instructions for altering dolman sleeves to fit better.
• “Bust Cup Alterations: A Comprehensive Guide” by Sewing.org: This guide provides an overview of different bust cup alteration methods and tips for choosing the right one for your garment.
• “Sewing 101: Adding Bust Cups to a Garment” by Sew4Home: This tutorial provides step-by-step instructions for adding bust cups to a garment, including tips for fitting and sewing them in place.
• “How to Add Bust Cups to a Garment” by Sewing.net: This tutorial provides an overview of different bust cup alteration methods and tips for choosing the right one for your garment.

I hope these resources are helpful! If you have any additional questions or need further guidance, don’t hesitate to ask.

Bust Cup Alteration Methods for Dolman Sleeves

Method	Description	Pros	Cons
Full bust cups	Adds a full bust cup to each side of the bodice, attached to the side seam or underarm seam	Provides maximum support for full busts	May add bulk to the garment
Partial bust cups	Adds a partial bust cup to each side of the bodice, attached to the side seam or underarm seam	Provides support for smaller busts	May not provide enough support for full busts
Bias-cut bust cups	Cuts the bust cups on the bias and attaches them to the bodice using a small dart	Provides a natural, seamless look	May require a small dart to shape the cups

This table provides an overview of different bust cup alteration methods that can be used to add cups to a dolman sleeve garment. Each method has its own pros and cons, so it’s important to choose the one that best suits your needs and preferences.

FAQs

Here are a few frequently asked questions about altering a dolman sleeve that we haven’t discussed yet:

Editor’s Note

It sounds like you have a Kwikset pattern with dolman sleeves that you would like to alter to add bust cups. Dolman sleeves are a type of sleeve that is attached to the bodice of a garment at the shoulder and extends down to the hem without a separate armhole seam. This can make it more challenging to add bust cups, as there is no separate armhole seam to anchor the cups too.

One way to approach this alteration would be to create a separate armhole seam, which will allow you to add bust cups in the same way you would for a garment with traditional sleeves. To do this, you could try the following steps:

• Cut the front and back bodice pieces of your pattern along the armhole curve, so that you have separate front and back armhole pieces.
• Trace the front and back bodice pieces onto a new piece of paper, and draw in the new armhole seam using the front and back armhole pieces as a guide. Make sure to add seam allowance to your new armhole seam.
• Cut out the new front and back bodice pieces, including the new armhole seam.
• To add the bust cups, follow the instructions for your chosen bust cup alteration method. You may need to make some adjustments to the bust cup pattern pieces to fit the new armhole seam.
• Sew the front and back bodice pieces together, following the instructions for your pattern. Make sure to sew the bust cups in place before sewing the side seams.

I hope this helps! If you have any questions or need further clarification, feel free to ask.

Conclusion

Altering a dolman sleeve to add bust cups can be a challenging but rewarding task. By following these steps, you can create a custom-fit garment that is comfortable and flattering:

• Create a separate armhole seam: Cut the front and back bodice pieces along the armhole curve, trace the front and back bodice pieces onto a new piece of paper and draw in the new armhole seam, and cut out the new front and back bodice pieces, including the new armhole seam.
• Add bust cups: Choose the right bust cup alteration method for your garment, fit and sew the cups in place, and make any necessary adjustments to the fit.
• Finish the alteration: Sew the front and back bodice pieces together, including the bust cups, and neaten the armhole seam and hem.

With a little bit of patience and attention to detail, you can create a custom-fit dolman sleeve garment that is perfect for you. So don’t be afraid to try out this alteration and see what you can create!