Purl knit fabric, with its distinctive alternating knit and purl stitch pattern, is a versatile and popular choice in textiles. This unique fabric construction creates a reversible and identical fabric on both sides, offering design flexibility and aesthetic appeal.
The absence of visible stitches gives purl knit fabric a seamless appearance, while its flat and non-curling nature makes it easy to work with during sewing and provides a polished finish to the final product.
One of the standout features of purl knit fabric is its excellent stretchability, particularly in the lengthwise direction. This property allows for comfortable movement and flexibility when wearing garments made from this fabric.
Whether it’s used for cozy sweaters, children’s clothing, or a wide range of other applications, purl knit fabric offers a combination of style, comfort, and practicality.
We will explore the various aspects of purl knit fabric, including its characteristics, uses, care, and environmental impact.
By understanding this fabric’s unique qualities and considerations, we can appreciate its beauty and make informed choices when working with or purchasing purl knit garments.
What is Purl Knit Fabric?
Purl knit fabric is created by interweaving yarn using alternating knit and purl stitches within a single column of the fabric, known as a wale. This type of fabric consists of courses, which are rows of stitches alternating between knit and purl stitches.
What sets purl knit fabric apart is its reversible nature, as both sides of the fabric look identical. Additionally, this fabric does not curl and remains flat, making it highly desirable for various applications.
It is worth noting that purl knit fabric exhibits more excellent stretchability in the direction of length, providing flexibility and comfort to the wearer.
History of Purl Knit Fabric
The history of purl knit fabric dates back to the 16th century when English knitters invented it. This technique was initially employed to create knitted stockings, a garment that gained immense popularity as a fashionable accessory among Italian and Spanish men.
The purl stitch, a key element of purl knit fabric, played a significant role in creating intricate patterns and textures.
It was during this time that King Henry VIII of England became the first British monarch to wear knitted stockings, further establishing the prominence of this type of fabric.
Over the centuries, purl knit fabric has evolved and found its place in various applications, showcasing its versatility and enduring appeal.
Characteristics of Purl Knit Fabric
Purl knit fabric, also known as reverse stockinette stitch, is a type of knitted fabric with distinct characteristics that set it apart from other knit stitches, like the knit stitch or garter stitch. Here are some critical characteristics of purl knit fabric:
Tubular Form
Purl-knit fabrics are typically knitted in a tubular form, meaning they are created as a seamless tube rather than a flat panel. This construction eliminates the need for side seams and enhances the fabric’s overall durability.
Non-curling Ends
Unlike other knitting stitches, purl knit fabrics do not curl at the ends. This feature ensures the fabric lies flat and maintains its shape, reducing the need for additional finishing or edge treatments.
Versatility
Purl knit is considered the most versatile stitch due to its ability to create various patterns, textures, and designs. The purl stitch can be used alone or with other knitting techniques to achieve multiple effects. It is adaptable to different design requirements.
Slow Production Rate
Purl knit fabric’s production rate is relatively slower than other knitting methods. This slower pace, often requiring more time and attention, contributes to the higher cost of producing purl knit fabrics.
Vulnerability to Runs
If a loop is broken in a purl knit fabric, it will run up and down the fabric. A small snag or tear can create a noticeable line or ladder in the fabric’s structure.
Crosswise and Lengthwise Stretch
Purl knit fabrics exhibit stretchability in crosswise (horizontal) and lengthwise (vertical) directions. This characteristic provides the fabric with excellent flexibility and allows for comfortable movement and fit when worn.
Types of Purl Knit Fabric
Purl knit fabric is characterized by its textured, bumpy surface on the right side, created using purl stitches.
While there aren’t many distinct types of purl knit fabric, as there are other knit stitches, you can create different patterns and variations using purl stitches. Here are a few common types or variations of purl knit fabric:
Cut & Sew Fabrics
Cut & sew purl knit fabrics refer to those knitted in tubular form and then cut open along one side to create a flat fabric.
This allows for easier manipulation and sewing of the fabric into various garment pieces. Cut & sew purl knit fabrics are commonly used to produce T-shirts, dresses, and other apparel items.
Double Knit Fabric
Double knit purl fabric is created by knitting two layers simultaneously, resulting in a thicker and more substantial fabric. This type of purl knit fabric is known for its excellent drape, stability, and warmth.
Double-knit fabrics often produce sweaters, cardigans, skirts, and other garments that require structure and insulation.
Raschel Knit Fabric
Raschel knit purl fabric is produced using a specific type of knitting machine called a Raschel machine. This machine allows for creating intricate patterns, textures, and openwork designs in the fabric.
Raschel knit purl fabrics vary in weight and thickness, making them suitable for various applications, including lingerie, swimwear, and decorative textiles.
What is Purl Knit Fabric Made of?
Purl knit fabric is typically made from yarn, which can be composed of various materials. The choice of yarn material will influence the characteristics of the final fabric. Common materials used to make purl knit fabric include:
Yarn Selection
The first step in making purl knit fabric is selecting the appropriate yarn. Yarn can be made from natural fibers like wool, cotton, silk, or linen or synthetic fibers like acrylic, polyester, or nylon.
The choice of yarn will influence the characteristics of the final fabric, including its drape, stretch, and texture.
Knitting Process
Purl knit fabric is created by interweaving the yarn using alternating knit and purl stitches in one wale of the fabric.
This is achieved through knitting, which involves manipulating the yarn with knitting needles or a machine. The knitter works row by row, forming loops with the yarn to create the desired pattern and texture.
Alternating Knit and Purl Stitches
In purl knit fabric, the knitter alternates between knit and purl stitches in one wale. The knit stitch creates a raised loop on the fabric’s surface, while the purl stitch forms a recessed loop. This alternating pattern gives purl knit fabric its distinct texture and appearance.
Reversible Design
One key characteristic of purl knit fabric is its reversibility. The fabric looks identical on both the face (right) and back (wrong) sides. This is achieved by incorporating the same alternating knit and purl stitch pattern on both sides of the fabric during the knitting process.
Non-curling and Flat
Purl knit fabric has the advantage of not curling at the edges. This means the fabric lies flat and does not require additional finishing or edge treatments to maintain its shape.
Combining the alternating knit and purl stitches helps prevent curling, ensuring a neat and even fabric surface.
What is Purl Knit Fabric Fabric Used for?
Purl knit fabric has a variety of uses in the world of textiles, and its suitability for different applications depends on the specific characteristics of the fabric, the fiber content, and the knitting technique used. Here are some common uses for purl knit fabric:
Bulky Sweaters
Purl knit fabric is particularly well-suited for the production of bulky sweaters. The alternating knit and purl stitch pattern creates a textured surface that adds visual interest and enhances the warmth and insulation of the garment.
The stretch and comfort of purl knit fabric make it an ideal choice for cozy and stylish sweaters, perfect for colder seasons.
Children’s Clothing
Purl knit fabric is often employed in the manufacturing of children’s clothing. The fabric’s softness, stretchability, and comfortable feel make it suitable for creating garments that accommodate the active movements of children.
Whether sweaters, cardigans, hats, or mittens, purl knit fabric provides both style and practicality for kids’ clothing.
Accessories
Purl knit fabric is also famous for creating a variety of accessories. Scarves, hats, gloves, and headbands from purl knit fabric offer warmth, comfort, and style.
The fabric’s stretch and flexibility allow these accessories to fit snugly, protecting from the cold while allowing for ease of movement.
Home Decor
Purl knit fabric is not limited to clothing and accessories; it can also be used in home decor. Throw blankets, pillows, and cushion covers made from purl knit fabric bring a cozy and inviting feel to living spaces.
The textured surface and the fabric’s reversible nature add visual interest and versatility to home decor items.
Craft Projects
Purl knit fabric is a popular choice for various craft projects. Its versatility allows it to be used in DIY projects such as stuffed toys, pet accessories, and decorative elements like wall hangings or plant holders. The unique texture and appearance of Purl knit fabric add a handmade and cozy touch to these creative endeavors.
What is the Structure of Purl Knit Fabric?
Purl knit fabric, also known as reverse stockinette stitch, has a distinct structure that sets it apart from other knit stitches. The following features characterize its structure:
Purling Stitch in One Wale
Purl knit fabric is created by incorporating purl stitches in one wale of the fabric. A wale is a column of stitches that runs vertically along the fabric.
Purl stitches form recessed loops on the fabric’s surface in purl knit fabric. This results in a textured appearance, as the purl stitches create small bumps or “pearls” on the fabric.
Knitting Yarn as a Substitute Knit
In addition to the purl stitches, purl knit fabric incorporates knit stitches as substitutes within the same wale. Knit stitches are interwoven with the purl stitches, forming raised loops or “v’s” on the fabric’s surface.
This alternating pattern of knit and purl stitches creates a visually appealing texture and allows various designs and patterns to form.
Identical on Both Sides
One noteworthy characteristic of purl knit fabric is its reversibility. The fabric appears identical on both the face (right) and back (wrong) sides.
This is achieved by incorporating the same knit and purl stitches on both sides during the knitting process. The fabric’s reversible nature adds to its versatility and allows for greater design flexibility.
Non-curling
Another critical aspect of the purl knit fabric’s structure is its ability to lie flat without curling at the edges. This is attributed to the balanced combination of purl and knit stitches, which helps stabilize the fabric and prevent curling.
The non-curling property ensures that the fabric maintains a neat and even appearance without additional finishing techniques.
How Do You Wash Purl Knit Fabric?
Like any other knitted fabric, washing purl knit fabric requires care to avoid damaging the delicate fibers and texture. Here are general guidelines for washing purl knit fabric:
Read the Care Label
Always start by checking the care label attached to the purl knit fabric. The care label provides instructions and recommendations for washing and caring for the fabric. It may include information on water temperature, washing methods, and any special considerations.
Hand Wash or Machine Wash on Gentle Cycle
In most cases, purl knit fabric is best washed by hand or gently on the machine. This helps prevent excessive agitation that could cause stretching or distortion of the fabric.
If using a washing machine, place the fabric in a mesh laundry bag to protect it from snagging or tangling with other items.
Use Mild Detergent
Opt for a mild detergent specifically designed for delicate fabrics or wool. Avoid harsh chemicals or bleach, as they can damage the fibers and affect the fabric’s appearance and texture. Follow the detergent’s instructions for the appropriate amount based on the load size.
Choose Cold or Lukewarm Water
It is generally recommended to wash purl knit fabric in cold or lukewarm water to prevent shrinkage or distortion. Avoid hot water, which can cause the fabric to feel or lose shape. Gently swish the fabric in the water to ensure thorough cleaning.
Avoid Aggressive Rubbing or Wringing
Handle purl knit fabric with care during the washing process. Avoid excessive rubbing, twisting, or wringing, as these actions can stretch or damage the fabric.
Instead, gently squeeze out excess water without wringing, or roll the fabric in a clean towel to absorb moisture.
Air Dry Flat
After washing, reshape the purl knit fabric to its original size and lay it flat on a clean towel or drying rack to air dry. Avoid hanging the fabric, as it may stretch under its weight. Direct exposure to sunlight may cause fading, so choose a shaded area for drying.
How to Care for Purl Knit Clothes?
Caring for purl knit clothes is essential to maintain their appearance and extend their lifespan. Purl knit fabric can be delicate, so follow these care instructions to keep your garments in good condition:
Hand Washing or Gentle Machine Cycle
Hand washing purl knit clothes is generally recommended to prevent excessive agitation and potential damage. Fill a clean basin or sink with lukewarm water and add a mild detergent suitable for delicate fabrics. Gently submerge the garment and soak it for a few minutes.
Avoid Aggressive Scrubbing
Avoid rubbing or scrubbing the fabric vigorously when washing purl knit clothes, as it can cause surface wear and distortion. Instead, gently squeeze and massage the garment to remove dirt or residue.
Be mindful not to twist or wring the fabric.
Rinse Thoroughly
After soaking, rinse the purl knit garment with clean water until all the detergent is removed. Ensure the water runs clear, indicating no soapy residue left in the fabric.
Handling Wet Knitwear
When handling wet, purl knit clothes, be cautious not to stretch or pull the fabric excessively. Support the garment’s weight with your hands to minimize strain on the fibers.
Do not hang the wet garment, as it may stretch out of shape. Instead, gently squeeze out excess water and reshape it to its original dimensions.
Drying
Lay the purl knit garment flat on a clean towel or a drying rack to air dry. Avoid exposing it to direct sunlight or heat sources, as they can cause fading or damage. Reshape the garment as necessary to maintain its original silhouette.
Storage
When storing purl knit clothes, fold them neatly to avoid stretching or creasing. Line the storage area with acid-free tissue paper to prevent any potential discoloration or transfer of dyes. Avoid hanging purl knit garments, as they can lose shape over time.
Avoiding Snags
Keep purl knit clothes away from sharp objects or rough surfaces to prevent snags. It’s advisable to store them separately or place them in a garment bag when traveling.
Read the Care Label
Always refer to the care instructions provided on the garment’s care label. Manufacturers may provide specific recommendations based on the yarn and construction of the purl knit fabric.
How to Sew Purl Knit Fabric?
Sewing purl knit fabric requires some special considerations due to its stretchy and textured nature. Here are steps to sew purl knit fabric successfully:
Choose the Right Needle and Thread
Start by selecting the appropriate sewing machine needle and thread. A ballpoint or stretch needle is recommended, as they are designed to penetrate knit fabrics without damaging the fibers. For the thread, opt for polyester or cotton thread with some stretch to accommodate the fabric’s movement.
Use a Stretch Stitch or Zigzag Stitch
When sewing purl knit fabric, it is best to use a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch on your sewing machine. These stitches allow flexibility and prevent the seams from breaking when the fabric stretches. Test the stitch settings on a scrap piece of fabric to ensure proper tension and stitch formation.
Pin or Use Clips
Pinning purl knit fabric can sometimes leave visible holes or distort the fabric. Instead, consider using clips or fabric weights to hold the fabric pieces together during sewing. This helps prevent puckering or stretching along the seam line.
Sew With a Stretchy Seam Allowance
Purl knit fabric requires a stretchy seam allowance to accommodate the fabric’s stretch. Instead of using the standard 5/8-inch seam allowance, reduce it to around 3/8 inches or even smaller. This narrower seam allowance allows the seams to stretch with the fabric without becoming too rigid.
Use Stabilizing Techniques
Purl knit fabric can be prone to stretching and distortion during sewing. You can use techniques such as staystitching or applying clear elastic tape along the seam line to stabilize the fabric.
Staystitching involves sewing a row of straight stitches within the seam allowance to stabilize curved edges or necklines.
Finish Raw Edges
Purl knit fabric tends to unravel, so finishing the raw edges is essential to prevent fraying. You can use a serger/overlocker to serge the edges or a zigzag stitch along the raw edges. Another option is to use a twin needle to create a professional-looking double row of stitching.
Press With Caution
When pressing purl knit fabric, be mindful of your iron’s heat and steam settings. Avoid using high heat, as it can damage or flatten the fabric. Instead, use a low heat setting or a pressing cloth or a steam iron with a low steam setting.
How Does Purl Knit Fabric Impact the Environment?
Purl knit fabric doesn’t directly impact the environment; producing and disposing of textiles made from purl knit fabric can have environmental consequences. Here are some ways in which the environmental impact can be influenced:
Material Sourcing
The environmental impact begins with sourcing the yarn used to make purl knit fabric. Depending on the type of yarn, it can be derived from natural fibers (such as cotton or wool) or synthetic fibers (such as polyester or acrylic).
Natural fibers generally have a lower environmental impact as they are biodegradable and renewable, whereas synthetic fibers are derived from petroleum and may contribute to resource depletion and pollution.
Energy and Water Consumption
Producing purl knit fabric involves energy and water-intensive processes, including spinning, dyeing, and finishing.
The environmental impact can be reduced by using energy-efficient machinery and adopting eco-friendly dyeing and finishing methods that minimize water consumption and reduce chemical usage.
Chemical Use and Waste Disposal
Using chemicals, such as dyes and finishing agents, in producing purl knit fabric can have environmental implications. Proper management of chemicals, adherence to environmental regulations, and responsible waste disposal practices are crucial to mitigate the impact.
Some manufacturers are adopting eco-friendly dyeing and finishing processes that utilize less water and chemicals or employ natural dyes.
Durability and Longevity
The durability and longevity of purl knit fabric can contribute to its environmental impact. Garments made from purl knit fabric that are well-cared for and have a longer lifespan reduce the need for frequent replacement, thus reducing waste generation and the consumption of resources.
End-of-life Considerations
Purl knit fabric garments can be disposed of differently at the end of their life cycle. If they are made from natural fibers, they can biodegrade in composting systems.
However, synthetic fibers may persist in the environment for a long time, contributing to microplastic pollution. Proper disposal options, such as recycling or repurposing, can help reduce the environmental impact.
Sustainable Practices
Some manufacturers and brands are adopting sustainable practices throughout the production chain to minimize the environmental impact of purl knit fabric.
This includes using organic or recycled fibers, implementing water and energy-saving technologies, reducing waste, and promoting responsible manufacturing and supply chain management.
Advantages and Disadvantages of Purl Knit Fabric
Purl knit fabric, like any other textile, comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. Understanding these can help you decide when and how to use purl knit fabric in various projects. Here are some of the key advantages and disadvantages:
Advantages of Purl Knit Fabric
- Reversible and Identical: Purl knit fabric is reversible, meaning both sides of the fabric look identical. This makes it versatile as both sides can be used as the face of the fabric, offering design flexibility.
- No Stitches: Purl knit fabric is created without visible stitches on the face side. This seamless appearance gives the fabric a clean and polished look, suitable for various garment applications.
- Flat and Non-Curling: Purl knit fabric lies flat and does not curl at the edges. This characteristic makes it easier to work with during sewing and provides a neat and finished look to the final product.
- Stretchable: Purl knit fabric exhibits excellent stretchability, particularly in the lengthwise direction. This allows for comfortable movement and flexibility when wearing garments made from this fabric.
Disadvantages of Purl Knit Fabric
- Shape Distortion: One drawback of purl knit fabric is its susceptibility to shape distortion. Due to its stretchability, the fabric can quickly lose its shape if not handled or cared for properly. Stretching or pulling the fabric excessively can cause it to stretch out of shape or lose its original dimensions.
- Loosening of Yarn: Purl knit fabric, especially horizontally knitted, can be prone to yarn loosening. If one end of the yarn is pulled, the tension along the entire length of the yarn can be affected, resulting in sporadic looseness throughout the fabric.
- Limited Structure and Drape: Purl knit fabric may have a more structured and less drapey appearance than other knit fabrics. This can limit its suitability for certain garment styles or designs that require fluidity and soft drapes.
- Production Speed: Purl knit fabric is generally produced at a slower rate compared to other knit fabrics. This can make the manufacturing process more time-consuming and potentially increase production costs.
Comparison Table Between Purl Knit Fabric and Other Fabrics
| Property | Purl Knit Fabric | Jersey Knit Fabric | Rib Knit Fabric |
|---|---|---|---|
| Reversibility | Reversible | Reversible | Reversible |
| Stitches | No visible stitches | Visible stitches | Visible stitches |
| Flatness | Flat, non-curling | Flat, non-curling | May curl |
| Stretchability | Excellent stretch | Moderate stretch | Moderate stretch |
| Shape Retention | Prone to distortion | Good shape retention | Good shape retention |
| Yarn Loosening | Susceptible to loosening | Less susceptible to loosening | Less susceptible to loosening |
| Production Speed | Slow | Moderate | Moderate |
| Structure | Varied | Smooth and drapey | Rigid and structured |
| Garment Applications | Sweaters, children’s clothing | T-shirts, dresses, casual wear | Cuffs, collars, waistbands |
FAQs
Purl knit fabric can vary in thickness and composition so that it can be used for warm weather depending on the specific fabric. Lighter-weight, purl knit fabrics from breathable materials like cotton or bamboo can provide comfort in warmer temperatures.
Purl knit fabric can be used for sportswear or activewear, especially if it has good stretch and recovery properties. However, the fabric weight and composition choice should be considered based on the specific activity and desired performance attributes such as moisture-wicking or breathability.
The shrinkage of purl knit fabric depends on several factors, including the type of fiber, fabric construction, and washing method. Natural fibers like cotton or wool may have a higher tendency to shrink compared to synthetic fibers. It’s essential to follow the care instructions provided by the fabric manufacturer to minimize shrinkage.
Yes, purl knit fabric can be dyed or printed. However, the dyeing and printing methods may vary depending on the fabric’s fiber content. Some natural fibers may require different dyeing techniques compared to synthetic fibers. It is advisable to consult with a professional dyer or follow the fabric manufacturer’s recommendations for the best results.
Purl knit fabric can be used for home décors applications such as throw blankets, pillows, or curtains. However, its stretch and drape characteristics may make it less suitable for upholstery projects where a more structured fabric might be preferable.
Pilling is the formation of small balls of fibers on the fabric surface. The propensity for pilling can vary based on the specific fiber content and fabric construction of the purl knit fabric. Generally, fabrics with longer staple fibers and tighter knits are less prone to pilling. Regular maintenance, such as using a fabric shaver or pilling comb, can help manage any potential pilling.
To Recap
purl knit fabric offers a range of unique characteristics that make it a popular choice for various garments and projects. Its alternating knit and purl stitch construction creates a reversible flat fabric that does not curl at the edges.
The absence of visible stitches gives it a seamless appearance, while its excellent stretchability provides comfort and flexibility.
While purl knit fabric offers advantages such as versatility and a clean aesthetic, it does have some considerations to keep in mind. Its stretchiness can lead to shape distortion if not handled carefully, and the yarn may loosen sporadically when pulled.
Additionally, the production speed of purl knit fabric tends to be slower, which can impact costs.
By understanding the properties and characteristics of purl knit fabric and following proper care and handling techniques, one can fully enjoy its benefits and create beautiful garments.
Whether used for cozy sweaters, children’s clothing, or other projects, purl knit fabric offers a unique texture and appeal that adds a touch of comfort and style to any wardrobe.
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