What Is Reverse Stockinette Stitch?

Reverse stockinette stitch is a fundamental and versatile knitting technique that creates a distinctive textured fabric. 

Unlike the smooth surface of traditional stockinette stitch, reverse stockinette features a bumpy, purl-side texture on its right side. 

This effect is achieved by alternating rows of purl stitches with rows of knit stitches. As a result, the purl bumps become the visible surface of the fabric, adding depth and visual interest to your knitting projects. 

Reverse stockinette stitch is widely used for various applications, from sweaters and scarves to colorwork patterns, providing contrast and enhancing the overall aesthetics of your creations. Understanding and mastering this technique is essential for any knitter.

What Is Reverse Stockinette Stitch?

Reverse stockinette stitch, often referred to as “purl” or “wrong side” in knitting, is a fundamental knitting technique that creates a textured fabric with a bumpy, purl-side surface and a smooth, flat, “right side” surface.

It is the reverse of the more commonly known stockinette stitch, which has a smooth side on the right and a bumpy side on the wrong side. 

Reverse stockinette stitch is commonly used for various knitting projects, adding contrast and texture to your creations.

Here are some key characteristics of reverse stockinette stitch:

Stitch Formation

To create a reverse stockinette stitch, you alternate rows of purl stitches with rows of knit stitches. On the right side (the side facing you while knitting), you knit, and on the wrong side, you purl. 

This creates a pattern where the purl bumps from the “public” or right side of the fabric.

Texture

Reverse stockinette stitch has a distinctive textured appearance, with the purl bumps creating a slightly raised, bumpy surface. 

This texture adds depth and visual interest to your knitting projects. It’s often used as a background texture for more complex stitch patterns or as a contrasting element.

Curling

One notable characteristic of reverse stockinette stitch is that it tends to curl at the edges more than stockinette stitch. 

This is because the purl stitches naturally contract, causing the fabric to curl towards the smooth, knit side. 

To prevent excessive curling, you may need to add a border of a different stitch pattern or use blocking techniques when finishing your project.

Versatility

Reverse stockinette stitch can be used in a wide range of knitting projects. It’s commonly found in sweaters, scarves, blankets, and other garments. 

Designers often use it strategically to create textured elements, like cuffs, collars, or borders, that contrast with the smoothness of stockinette stitch.

Colorwork

Reverse stockinette stitch can also be used effectively in colorwork projects. When combined with stockinette stitch or other textured stitches, it allows you to create intricate patterns and designs by using contrasting colors.

Practice and Technique

Learning to reverse stockinette stitch is an essential skill for knitters. It helps improve your dexterity and familiarity with the basic knit and purl stitches. 

As with any knitting technique, achieving an even tension is key to creating a polished and visually pleasing fabric.

What Is Reverse Stockinette Stitch Used For?

Reverse stockinette stitch is used for a variety of purposes in knitting projects, thanks to its distinct texture and versatility.

Here are some common applications of reverse stockinette stitch:

Textured Accents

Reverse stockinette stitch is often used to create textured accents within a predominantly stockinette fabric. 

For example, it can be used for cuffs, collars, hems, and borders on sweaters, cardigans, and other garments. 

The contrast between the smooth stockinette and the bumpy reverse stockinette adds visual interest.

Colorwork

When combined with stockinette stitch or other colorwork techniques, reverse stockinette provides a canvas for creating intricate patterns and designs with contrasting colors. It’s commonly used in Fair Isle, intarsia, and stranded colorwork projects.

Embossed Patterns

Reverse stockinette can be used to create embossed or raised patterns on a fabric. By selectively using reverse stockinette stitches in certain areas, you can form shapes, motifs, or letters that stand out from the rest of the fabric.

Cables

Reverse stockinette stitch is sometimes used in combination with cables. The textured background of the reverse stockinette can make the cables pop and enhance their definition.

Blankets and Afghans

Reverse stockinette can be an excellent choice for creating cozy and textured blankets or afghans. The texture adds warmth and comfort to the fabric.

Scarves and Accessories

Scarves, mittens, gloves, and other accessories benefit from the added thickness and warmth of reverse stockinette stitch. It can be used for the entire item or as a decorative element.

Dishcloths

The texture of the reverse stockinette makes it an ideal choice for dishcloths and washcloths, where the bumps can provide a bit of scrubbing power.

Baby Garments

Reverse stockinette is often used in baby clothing to create a soft and textured surface that feels gentle against a baby’s sensitive skin.

Decorative Panels

In some knitting projects, especially those with an artful or avant-garde aesthetic, reverse stockinette may be used as decorative panels or inserts to break up the monotony of other stitch patterns.

Practice and Contrast

Knitters may use reverse stockinette in their projects simply for the practice and contrast it offers. It’s an essential skill to have in your knitting repertoire, and using it in different projects helps you become more proficient.

How to Do Reverse Stocking Stitch

To create a reverse stockinette stitch, you’ll need to alternate between rows of purl stitches and rows of knit stitches.

Here’s a step-by-step guide on how to do it:

Materials You’ll Need:

●  Yarn of your choice

●  Knitting needles appropriate for your yarn weight

Instructions:

Start with a Cast-On

Begin by casting on the desired number of stitches using any cast-on method you prefer. You can use the long-tail cast-on, the knitted cast-on, or another method of your choice.

Row 1 (Wrong Side – WS)

With your yarn at the back of your work, insert the right-hand needle from right to left into the first stitch as if to purl. 

Wrap the yarn around the right-hand needle clockwise and pull it through the stitch, creating a new stitch on the right-hand needle. 

Slip the old stitch off the left-hand needle. Continue to purl every stitch across the row. This is your first row of reverse stockinette stitch.

Row 2 (Right Side – RS)

Turn your work around to the right side. With the yarn at the back of your work, insert the right-hand needle from left to right into the first stitch as if to knit. 

Wrap the yarn counterclockwise around the right-hand needle and pull it through the stitch, creating a new stitch on the right-hand needle. Slip the old stitch off the left-hand needle. Continue to knit every stitch across the row.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2

Continue to alternate between Row 1 (purling) on the wrong side and Row 2 (knitting) on the right side. 

Remember that you create the purl bumps (reverse stockinette) on the right side of the fabric by purling on the wrong side.

Finishing

Keep working in this manner until your piece reaches the desired length. When you’re ready to bind off, make sure to end on a wrong side (purl) row for a neat finish. 

You can use a standard bind-off method, such as the knitwise or purlwise bind-off, depending on your last row.

Weave in Ends

After binding off, cut the yarn, leaving a tail, and use a yarn needle to weave in the loose ends on the wrong side of your work to secure them.

How to prevent stockinette stitch from curling at the edges

Stockinette stitch has a natural tendency to curl at the edges due to the differences in tension between the knit and purl rows. 

To prevent or minimize this curling, you can use several techniques. Here are some effective methods to keep your stockinette stitch flat:

Add a Border

One of the most common ways to prevent stockinette from curling is to add a border of a different stitch pattern around the edges. 

For example, you can use a few rows of garter stitch, ribbing, seed stitch, or any other non-curling stitch pattern. The contrasting texture will help anchor the edges and keep them flat.

Block Your Project

Blocking is a crucial step in knitting that can help flatten your work. Wet blocking or steam blocking involves soaking your finished piece in water or steam, then gently shaping and stretching it to the desired dimensions. Pinning it in place while it dries can also help set the stitches and prevent curling.

Use a Larger Needle Size for Edge Stitches

Sometimes, using a larger needle size for the first and last few stitches of each row can help. This loosens the tension of the edge stitches, making them less prone to curling. Experiment with different needle sizes to find the right balance.

Slip the First Stitch

On the knit rows (right side), you can try slipping the first stitch of every row purlwise with the yarn in the back. 

This creates a neat edge that is less likely to curl. When you’re on the purl rows (wrong side), slip the first stitch purlwise with the yarn in front.

Use a Non-Curling Yarn

Some yarns are more prone to curling than others due to their fiber content and structure. Consider choosing a yarn that is less likely to curl, such as a blend with acrylic or a heavier-weight yarn.

Knit in the Round

Instead of knitting flat and seaming your work, consider knitting your project in the round if it suits your design. 

Circular knitting naturally produces stockinette stitch on one side and reverse stockinette on the other, reducing curling.

Create an I-Cord Edge

For a decorative edge that prevents curling, you can add an I-cord border. This involves picking up stitches along the edge of your project and knitting them in the round using the I-cord technique.

Experiment and Sample

If you’re unsure which method will work best for your specific project and yarn, consider making a small sample swatch and testing different techniques to see which one provides the desired results.

Reverse Stockinette vs Garter Stitch

Both reverse stockinette stitch and garter stitch are essential knitting techniques that result in distinct textures. 

They are commonly used in various knitting projects, each with its unique characteristics. 

In this comparison, we’ll explore the key differences between reverse stockinette stitch and garter stitch to help you choose the one that suits your project’s needs.

Here’s a table summarizing the differences between reverse stockinette stitch and garter stitch:

Characteristic	Reverse Stockinette Stitch	Garter Stitch
Texture	Bumpy, raised purl side	Even, raised on both sides
Right Side vs. Wrong Side	Purl side is the right side	Same texture on both sides
Curling	Tends to curl at the edges	Resists curling
Ease of Execution	Requires alternating rows of purl and knit stitches	Consists of knitting every row, making it easier for beginners
Appearance in Colorwork	Can be used for colorwork patterns by alternating colors with reverse stockinette rows	Not typically used for colorwork
Thickness and Warmth	Slightly thicker and warmer due to the raised texture	Similar thickness to stockinette, less warm
Common Applications	Borders, cuffs, textured accents, colorwork backgrounds	Scarves, blankets, beginner projects, and dishcloths
Reversible	Not reversible; the purl side is the right side	Reversible; the same texture on both sides
Versatility	Often used for decorative elements and contrast	Simple and versatile for various projects

FAQS

What is reverse stockinette stitch in the round?

Reverse stockinette stitch in the round is a knitting technique where you create a textured, bumpy fabric on the right side of your work while knitting in a circular pattern.

What is reverse stocking stitch?

Reverse stocking stitch, also known as reverse stockinette stitch, is a knitting technique that results in a fabric with a bumpy, purl-side texture on the right side.

What is a double stockinette stitch?

Double stockinette stitch is a knitting technique that involves knitting two layers of stockinette stitch fabric simultaneously.

Can reverse stockinette stitch be used in combination with other stitch patterns?

Absolutely! Reverse stockinette stitch pairs well with various other stitch patterns, such as cables, lace, and textured designs.

To Recap

Reverse stockinette stitch is a versatile knitting technique that offers a unique and textured alternative to the more common stockinette stitch. 

Its bumpy, purl-side surface creates depth and visual interest in knitting projects, making it an essential tool for knitters. 

Whether used for decorative elements like cuffs and collars, as a background for colorwork patterns, or in combination with other stitch patterns, reverse stockinette adds a distinct character to garments, accessories, and blankets. 

While it does have a tendency to curl at the edges, there are various methods to mitigate this issue. 

Understanding and mastering reverse stockinette stitch is a valuable skill that allows knitters to create captivating and textured fabric for a wide range of creative endeavors.